I could have blown system out w/ air hose or let air dry but was running out of daylight. After draining coolant I removed bleed screw in front of inverter and flushed water down reservoir, flushed down bleed port and flushed up from drain hole until it came out the top - then let it drain completely again.
#VACUUM COOLANT FILLER IN STOCK IN NC PC#
After removing drain plug and finding granulated white substance in it & in reservoir I decided to flush system out w/ water (water in Portland OR is very clean, close to bottled water, but may do 2nd change after few hundred miles if ya'll at PC strongly recommend it). Noticed reservoir cap had pink residue that looked powdery or gritty - rinsed it & blew it off, cleaned up nicely. Had car up on ramps already to change PSD fluid, seemed like a good time to get this done too. Pic#2 - To do the inverter coolant change I used the conical adapter shown.
Pic#1 - Included is gauge/adapter body (left of center), vacuum venturi (left), fluid fill tube w/ filter screen (right) & rubber adapter rings for various reservoir neck sizes. As Seilerts indicated the conical adapter is less than ideal but works fine if one is careful not to move it too much when disconnecting compressed air hose and reconnecting the suction tube for drawing coolant in - the high vacuum helps to hold it in.īought the Airlift kit from for just over $100, it looks solidly made and comes in a nice carrying case. I know now from experience that it's very straight-forward but I would've felt more confident going into it with a few pictures and descriptions so decided to offer my experience to this conversation. For those who have an Airlift tool or are trying to decide if it is worth buying before changing your inverter coolant - I give it two thumbs up! Changed my inverter coolant today using the Airlift tool and decided to document it since I didn't see a clear description given yet (other than it's faster and easier - which it is).
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